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From beauty to medicine, witch hazel is an ingredient with multiple uses and a long history. Before modern medicine, it was used to soothe wounds and promote healing. A few centuries later, you might remember stories of people using Preparation H hemorrhoid cream, which contains witch hazel, to fight bags under the eyes! (Spoiler alert: I don’t recommend it. The eye area is extremely sensitive and should only be exposed to products formulated specifically for this purpose.)
In recent years, witch hazel has been relegated as an old-school ingredient that can cause dryness or irritation. It seems like everyone has come to fear this ingredient, but I think that’s just misunderstood! Witch hazel can have benefits for almost any skin type, it’s just a matter of finding a well-formulated product. Witch hazel itself hasn’t changed over the years, but the way we use it has definitely changed. Skincare products are now designed to be much gentler, taking into account the skin’s protective barrier. With more advanced extraction techniques, you can reap the therapeutic benefits of witch hazel without the downsides. Witch hazel is making a comeback, and it’s here to deliver some serious benefits in more ways than one! Keep scrolling to find out how it could benefit your skin (and how to avoid any possible downsides).
What is witch hazel and where does it come from?
Witch hazel, or Hamamelis Virginianal, is a tree extract commonly used in cosmetics. It is native to Canada and the eastern United States, but globalization has also made it possible to cultivate it in Europe. Extraction is usually done by blowing parts of the tree (such as leaves, bark, and roots) with carbon dioxide. This stressor causes the plant to excrete an oil, which then leaves behind a watery substance that is essentially witch hazel essence. This water or “essence” is the one that is used in your cosmetics.
Witch hazel has been around for hundreds of years, finding it useful not only in skin care but also in healing wounds. Native Americans used it to soothe sores and irritations, and it is now used as a vasoconstrictor in modern medicine.
When it comes to skin care, we mainly use witch hazel for its astringent effect. This happens because of molecules called tannins, which cause skin proteins to tighten. This helps tighten pores and is also what aids in healing.
Will witch hazel dry out my skin?
The astringent effect of witch hazel is exactly what makes people worry that it will dry out their skin. Many of us associate the word “astringent” with the super drying toners of the 90s. The thing to understand is that if a substance is astringent, it just means that it causes a slight contraction (i.e. a tightening) of skin tissue when applied. People often associate this feeling of tightness with dryness, but in this case, that’s not necessarily accurate. It is true that if your pores are contracted, less sebum will pass through them. But if you’re trying to control excess fat, that’s a plus!
The problem with these toners in the 90s was that they often contained drying alcohols in addition to being astringent. This is ultimately what dried out people’s skin and caused irritation. There was a time when so many clients who came to my spa used a very popular 3-step skin care system that included an astringent toner. But in addition to including drying alcohols, this toner also contained acetone (yes, you read that right). I literally used it to remove my nail polish to show clients how hard it was.
The bottom line is that witch hazel is a great ingredient for both soothing and reducing excess oil production. As always, it’s all about finding a properly formulated product.
What should you look for when buying witch hazel products?
When looking for products containing witch hazel, it is essential to keep in mind that the method of extraction can significantly affect its properties. Some extractions may involve alcohol or have a high alcohol content, depending on the reason for the extraction. This ultimately means that some products will have alcohol on the ingredient list. So the first thing to do when beginning your search for the perfect witch hazel product is to check the ingredient list for drying alcohols such as SD 40 alcohol or denatured alcohol. Avoid these.
Keep in mind that part of what gave witch hazel such an undeserved stigma in the 90s was that toners were made using it at (or near) 100% concentration. You don’t need to worry about that now. Nowadays, when witch hazel is used in a product, it is a small component of a product’s overall formulation. It is only there to provide very mild astringency or anti-inflammatory properties. These days, most products also contain moisturizing ingredients, such as glycerin, in conjunction with witch hazel. This creates the perfect balance and compensates for any possible dryness.
As I always say, you shouldn’t judge a product by its ingredient label! In most cases, a single ingredient does not make or break a product. It all depends on the quality of an ingredient, how much it is used in a product, and how it is combined with other ingredients.
Who should use witch hazel?
Due to the astringent effects of witch hazel, I highly recommend this ingredient for skin types 1-4. Those with oily, acne-prone skin will benefit the most from its oil-reducing abilities. Since acne is an inflammatory condition, these skin types will also benefit from the anti-inflammatory properties of witch hazel.
In addition to curbing sebum production, remember that oily skin still needs hydration. Here is five ways to safely hydrate acne-prone skin.
Now, that’s not to say that those with dry skin can’t benefit from witch hazel as well. This multifaceted ingredient can also provide wonderful benefits such as antioxidant and soothing qualities, as well as the wound healing abilities I mentioned earlier. It all depends on the percentage of witch hazel present, as well as whether there are other ingredients added to help combat its drying effects. JHere are several formulas containing witch hazel that add ingredients like humectants (hyaluronic acid, glycerin, etc.) to help draw water to the skin and keep it hydrated.
How can you incorporate this ingredient into your daily routine?
Tonic
The most classic method of delivering witch hazel to the skin is by using a toner. A gentle leave-in formulation, like Balancing skin toneris a great option because molecules from water-based skincare products can penetrate deeper into the skin than molecules from thicker products.
Face masks
If you’re not currently on the hunt for a new toner, there are plenty of other ways to incorporate witch hazel into your routine. It can be a great addition to face masks. Witch Hazel and other pore-purifying extracts work together in Energizing Cleansing Mask to leave skin feeling tighter, firmer and refreshed. The combination of antioxidants and nourishing botanicals allows this non-drying clay mask to deliver cleaner pores and more refined skin.
moisturizer
Another great way to reap the benefits of witch hazel is to use a moisturizer like Daily Matifying Solution. The blend of witch hazel and moisturizing ingredients is ideal for very oily skin, such as Skin type 1who need hydration and oil control.
If you were confused about the negativity surrounding witch hazel, I hope this article helps put your mind at rest! This ingredient has a long heritage in the skincare community and is just one of many fantastic ingredients in any product formulator’s toolbox. It’s time to stop getting caught up in witch hazel’s troublesome past (and slightly creepy name) and start cheering on its well-deserved comeback.
Then learn more about the most efficient way to apply toner.
Renowned beautician and skin care expert
As an esthetician trained in cosmetic chemistry, Renée Rouleau has spent 30 years researching the skin, educating her audience and creating an award-winning line of products. Her hands-on experience as a trusted esthetician and skincare expert has created a real-world solution – products formulated to nine different skin types so your face gets exactly what it needs to look and feel its best. Recognized by celebrities, editors, bloggers and skincare enthusiasts around the world, her vast knowledge of the real world and constant research is why Marie Claire calls her “the most successful skincare practitioner”. passionate that we knew”.
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